Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Visitors, both domestic and foreign, to our country’s historic and picturesque spots have
always been fascinated by the rich and vibrant history that make up the grandiose and
lore of the land. Though most of these sightseers are often drawn to the more popular
sites like Agra or Ooty, there are doubtless many more scenic and breath-taking vistas
to explore in our vast nation. A fully paid-up member of this category is the Pattumala
Church and Monastery in Kerala.
Nestled in the magnificent Nilgiri mountains bordering Kerala and Tamil Nadu, the name
Pattumala literally means “Silk Mountain” (Pattu – silk, mala – mountain). The whole
countryside is a kaleidoscope of tea garden estates, steep cliffs and winding mountain
fresh springs. Rich undulating slopes, cool refreshing breezes, tea-scented whispers of
wind and the sunny yet chilly climate is the traveler’s paradise. Small wonder that it
has been called the “Ooty of Kerala”. Rising more than three thousand meters above
sea level, this location is indeed a sight to behold. Among others, the aromas of pepper,
cloves and cardamom also add that extra spice to the area. Though rich in tourist spots
and scenic wonders, no visit can ever be complete without a tour of the grand old church
of the land – Pattumala Church.
Locally known as a famous pilgrim center of late, the Pattumala Church sits squarely
on the top of a hill overlooking the town of Peermade. The art style of construction
is classical Gothic in nature. The most curious fact about this structure is that it is
made entirely from granite. Not a stick of wood or side of brick has been used in its
construction. As with most historical buildings, the Church has gone through various
stages of refurbishing and expansion before reaching its final look in 1989.
In the early 1960-s, it was a time when Christian missionaries were venturing into the
inlands of Kerala spreading the faith of Christ. It was a normal practice to find a serene
location, build some temporary lodgings and live in service to the local populace. So
it was that the Franciscan order of Missionary Brothers, on their travels, found a calm,
remote and absolutely beautiful land named Pattumala. They constructed an ashram and
began catering to the needs of the indigenous people. A small chapel was also built for
religious purposes. After some years, it was noticed that prayers offered to the Mother
Mary, mother of Christ, were being answered and boons being granted. Although viewed
with askance at first, this strange happening captured the imagination of the people,
prompting the local priest to report this to the Church. Convinced of the benevolence of
the Lady Mary and the sanctity of the spot, the church has a sculpture of the Lady made
and blessed, later transporting it to Pattumala, via a procession that extended sixty-eight
kilometers. The huge statue, weighing over 8 tonnes, were hauled up the church and
fitted with just manpower minus any machinery!
The church is built from black and white granite taken from the local stone hills and
etched into beautiful descriptions depicting various moments from the life of Jesus
Christ and extolling the greatness and magnificence of the Almighty. The granite pillars
supporting the building rise twenty-eight feet into the air and are intercrossed with stone
carvings of flying pigeons and delicate floral markings. The rough-hewn stone on the
outside, making up the base of the structure exudes a feeling of solidity and permanence
to the church and give it a old-world feeling.
The altar, located at the very front inside, is encompassed on three sides by stone
seraphims holding cymbals and depicting them as chanting hymns in the presence of
God. The great church hall is cavernous and being devoid of any real furniture, shows an

echoic character, further accentuated by the stone characteristics of the building. Legend
says that the local people, fearing bandits, used to hide their valuables behind the altar,
knowing any footfall in the church would be magnified, alerting the monks living there.
No visit to Pattumala Church would be complete without a stroll of the amazingly
beautiful flower gardens adjoining the compound. The roses, orchids and anthoriums are
indeed a lovely sight to behold, more so being surrounded by the native beauty and silent
splendor of the Nilgiris.

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